Worried About Using
Toxic Chlorine Bleach Or TSP To
Clean And Brighten Your Cedar Products?
- Feel great about using a cleaner that contains no bleach nor does it require bleach to be added.
- Get fantastic results using only natural wood brighteners!
- Perfect for your log home, boat teak, barn board or any natural wood surface!
This hydrogen peroxide based formulation with natural wood brighteners continues to receive compliment after compliment. The alternative has always been chlorine bleach or TSP but the problem with those cleaners are that they leave the wood surface with a very unnatural bleached look, and rarely comes out uniformly clean, with a "blotchy" look that looks as if a bucket of bleach was thrown on the house.
Our cedar cleaning product does not contain bleach nor does it require bleach to be added. Cedar Wash comes in a powdered form that when mixed with water creates millions of tiny little bubbles. These bubbles loosen all mold and fungus that may be attached to the wood surfaces. Our advantage is the natural adhesive, that we added, to keep the product on vertical or steep pitched surfaces long enough to clean before running off. A light brushing with a scrub brush and a hose powered rinse is all that is needed to clean up your cedar shakes or shingle and save them from rotting away.
It is called Cedar Wash but it is a wood cleaner and works great on log homes, boat teak, barn board or any natural wood surface. It's a "must use" prior to sealing or staining any wood surface.
Hi there, your Cedar Wash product is amazing and I cannot wait to send before and after pics, I am still mind-blowing on how well it works. I will be recommending your product to everyone I know - it's truly a great product. I ordered another 10lb pail the other day just to be on the safe side on things.
Repeat Cedar Wash Customer
So safe for vegetation we were even able to do the cleaning on the lawn...!!
BUY CEDAR WASH NOW!
100% MONEY BACK GUARANTEE
If for any reason you are unhappy with your results and you feel that a refund is warranted, simply return the product and the receipt and we will refund your money, no questions asked. This way you can order with confidence. We want you to be happy and to have a pleasant, stress free shopping experience. Our products work and work well…all you have to do is give them a try!
Attention Contractors: There are no refunds on contractor-size products. We have never had a contractor ask for a refund but if you are a new contractor, we suggest ordering our smaller size products first to get used to using them before ordering our contractor-sized products.
- How To Use
2lbs will treat 600-800 sq ft
10lbs will treat 3,000-4,000 sq ft
40lbs will treat 12,000-16,000 sq ft
Add ½ cup per gallon of water, mix well, stirring frequently, allow solution to fully activate for 15 minutes prior to use. Clean small sections at a time. Apply product with "garden-style" pump sprayer or mop, scrub with brush, keep area moist with product while brushing and rinse with water. For "professional results, a pressure washer may ne substituted for scrub brush and hose.
Please note that mixing instructions are measured in U.S. gallons, so feel free to add more of the powder to your mix.
You'll find answers to most frequently asked questions below, as well as a handy measurement converter tool. If these resources don't answer your question(s), feel free to contact us by clicking the green button below:
Why can't I just just pressure-wash my cedar?
Pressure washing cedar shakes or shingles without prior treatment of cedar can actually make your situation worse. Direct pressure can imbed mold spores into the wood and if you are applying a stain or sealant the mold will come back through. High pressure power washing is not advised as when the pressure hits the surface, it spreads the mold.
Like cutting dandelions with your lawn mower to remove them from your lawn, untreated pressure washing is a short term solution at best. If the mold is treated first with the Cedar Wash then pressure washed very lightly, (no more than 1,000 psi) with the spray angled down, as rain would fall, the cleaning process is accelerated and will not spread the mold nor damage or scar the cedar.Unlike chlorine bleach and TSP the Cedar Wash will not harm the vegetation around the house. It also will not stain any painted surface or fabric that it may come in contact with.
I have three questions, if you will. What is the difference between the Cedar Wash and the Deck Wash, if there is one or just a matter of labeling? I just purchased a container of Cedar Wash for my cedar deck and wonder if I should change it or if it has been reformulated. And, what is your percentage of Disodium Percolate in your product? Lastly, do I need a sprayer to apply or can I use the brush that I will be scrubbing to apply the liquid as well. Is there some magic about spraying it on?
There is very little difference between the two, Cedar Wash, and Deck Wash. For the Cedar Wash as it is intended for cedar roofing particularly, we added an ingredient that will slow the run off a bit, other than that, they are chemically identical, and Cedar Wash will work just fine on your deck.
The active ingredients in both Cedar Wash and Deck Wash is sodium per carbonate, which is the liquid Hydrogen Peroxide mixed with soda ash (sodium carbonate), to give us a granular powder rather than a liquid. The reason we do this is that powdered cleaners are much easier to ship, and last much longer on the shelf even after being opened, so you can simply put the cap back on and use the remaining powder at any time in the future. Liquids tend to lose potency rapidly after opening. (I'm not quite sure where you saw "disodium percolate").
Regarding application, I suppose you could brush or mop it on your deck, but most use an ordinary hand pump sprayer bought from your local hardware store, then a stiff long handled brush, and garden hose it off, or alternatively washing it off with a pressure washer with about 1000 psi ... (no higher than you can put on your hand) . I have used two different sprayers, one costing about $15 with a no adjustment nozzle and a $35 with an adjustable nozzle I found that I had to use a drill with a small bit to open the nozzle size to get a healthy spray with the less expensive one, but then it worked well. Get a 2 liter if you can, so you don't have to refill it too often.
Another tip ... mix the powder in a separate pail, not in the sprayer. As the cleaner activates, the liquid foams quite aggressively and when I mixed it in the smaller opening sprayer it foamed all over the place. An open top pail worked much better, then pour into the sprayer.
Please note two common mistakes to avoid. You must stir it until completely dissolved (warm water will help if available) or your nozzle will plug with undisclosed granules. Secondly you must let the cleaner "perk" for about 20-30 minutes to activate the cleaning process. When the foam has reduced into just a skim on top it is ready to use. Do not start too soon.
Can you expand on the instructions for cleaning a cedar roof with Cedar Wash? - Max (Whistler, B.C.)
For normal use use 1/2 to 3/4 cup per gallon, making it stronger probably for the first cleaning as that is when the growth will be at its most dense. After that an annual spray again with about 1/2 to 3/4 cup per gallon will be adequate to keep further growth down with no need for pressure washing. The powder will last indefinitely in the jar so order a good supply for future use. (By the way it works on algae growth on gutters too, with a light brushing after spraying).
Warm water, where available, makes the mixing and dissolving easier. Make sure you stir the solution thoroughly to dissolve all the powder granules or they may clog your nozzle. At this point you will see the solution foam up aggressively. I find that it is best to mix the solution in an open top container rather than in the actual sprayer, or it may foam over. Let the mixture sit far a few minutes. A rule of thumb is to let the foam die down for about 15-20 minutes thus allowing enough time for the cleaning agents to activate, then pour into your sprayer, and apply to your cedar. Cedar Wash will destroy existing moss and algae growth as well as the subsurface roots and spores immediately on contact. You should see a color change on the moss fairly quickly.
The problem is that if you have trees nearby, or neighbors with untreated roofs, be it cedar or asphalt, the spores will blow onto your roof and start growing all over again. By putting down a layer of spray once every year as regular maintenance, you will keep your roof clear from re growth.
Some people just spray and let Mother Nature's wind and rain do the rest. However, if you can lightly power wash the roof after spraying, it is obviously a much quicker clean and will will lighten up considerably over the next few weeks, but still maintaining a natural cedar color, (unlike a chemically strong bleach which, in my opinion makes the cedar take on an unsightly yellowed tone).
Some people are uncomfortable with getting on the shakes for fear of damage. There is an attachment for an aluminum ladder called a "ridge hook", which hooks over the peak of the roof and allows access to the roof by walking on the ladder rather than the shakes themselves. Many of the "pros" out here use a ridge hook to avoid splitting any cedar shingles, particularly in an older roof. This makes power washing much easier. Keep in mind that it is a very gentle wash...no more power than you can stand on your bare hand, but yet stronger than that of a garden hose ... about 1000 psi seems best. Hope this helps.